The Every-girl – air-dried texture using minimal products
Lazy girls rejoice – the quintessential spring 2015 hair trend is all about air-dried texture and minimal product usage. Hairstyling hall-of-famer, Guido Palau, explains this au natural look for those that are unconvinced by the undone style:
“the hair offsets all of that luxury [on the runway] in a way that feels young. Instead of a blowout, hair has to be a good color, a good length, and in good condition, and then it just works.”
So while natural-looking hair seems effortless at first glance, keep in mind that it is dependent on your hair colorist, your hair stylist, and the hair products you use between salon appointments that keep your hair in peak condition. On the runway, our favorite reverse-inspiration looks (i.e. runway looks inspired by street style) were seen on the spring 2015 runway of Chanel, Burberry Prorsum, and Anthony Vaccarello. Sam McKnight, lead hairstylist at the Chanel show, said of their hair look, “Karl wanted all the girls to have their own natural look. As every model has different hair, so each way of perfecting her look differed, too.” In short, a loose, worn-in blowout that is suited to your hair is more difficult to recreate than a rigid ‘do. At the Chanel show, not all models were styled using the same products. On dry, wirey hair, Phyto 7 Hydrating Day Cream was used to smooth and moisturize. Thin hair that tends to fall flat was misted with Oribe Dry Texturizing Spray to give volume. In his backstage interviews, McKnight also confessed that some heads of hair didn’t need any help from the stylists at all… Gisele, we’re looking at you.
Undone Bombshell – the second day blowout
The undone look carries into tried and true bombshell blowouts. This look is similar to the previous (which you can imagine as its grungy, younger sister), but has less air-dried texture, and more volume and product usage. Our favorite examples of the look were found on the runways of Diane Von Furstenberg, Jenny Packham and Marchesa. At DVF, the hair was big and the makeup was sultry, a combo inspired by those who frequented the French Riviera in the 1950s and 60s, such as Brigitte Bardot. DVF lead hairstylist Orlando Pita remarked, “Brigitte was ahead of her time – she was doing bedhead before it even existed.” To achieve this sexy, undone look, aim for volume, body, and messiness. Create volume with a root booster and by blowing your hair out with a round ceramic brush. Add body to your hair with dry shampoo and texturizing powder. Lastly, to create some worn-in messiness, rough up a few strands at the crown of the head with your fingers. Our words of wisdom? Don’t tease your hair to get this look, and forego dramatically winged eyeliner in order to craft a more modern look.
The Long, Low Pony
From what we have seen so far, 2015 ponytails remain long and low. If you regularly rely on a ponytail, try one of the new ponytail looks from Cushnie et Ochs, Stella McCartney, and Gucci to mix-up your routine. The ponytail from Cushnie et Ochs is angular, sleek, and was inspired by Egypt during a desert sunset. To recreate this pony, first blow dry hair into a tight ponytail at the top of the head. Take a 1-inch piece and wrap it around the elastic, then wrap another elastic around the ponytail about 1 ½ inches from the base. Lastly, loosen the hair in this section between the two elastics, and pin the second elastic to the base of the head. If sharp and slick just isn’t your style, the Stella McCartney ponytail is a fresh spin on the classic, equestrian look. While crimping may seem way too ‘80s to even wrap your head around, done sparingly, it is an easy way to add a runway-worthy, abstract texture to your otherwise basic ponytail. Don’t have a crimper? Not to worry, you can substitute with a flatiron and create the same texture just on a few strips throughout your hair.
Come spring 2015, braids are no longer basic. The longer of the braid with the more complicated of a weave, the better. If you’re up for a braiding challenge and weary of settling with just another French or Dutch braid, look to Donna Karan and Mara Hoffman. On the Donna Karan runway, the complex braids worn by the models were intended to be a sort of accessory. To get the look, first spray the crown and sides of the head with hairspray for a smooth look and pull hair back into a ponytail at the nape of the neck. Weave a four-section braid (might require an extra set of hands and uses a technique resembling that which is used to braid a keychain) and fasten it with a thin cord that matches your hair color. At the end, add more hairspray to the braid for a lacquered finish.
Personally, my favorite hair look on the spring 2015 runway was Mara Hoffman’s runaway Rapunzel braid, which was inspired by the California heat and arid desert. Nick Irwin for Tigi says, “it’s like she might have done this herself and she could have been in the desert for a couple days and slept on it. Or at the beach.” To achieve this braid, wash hair and air dry hair without blowing it dry, straightening it, or brushing it. Comb through hair only with fingers, use a dry shampoo to begin with a matte, dry texture, and then divide hair into three sections. Gather the back section that goes from the crown of the head to the ears in a low, loose pony and secure with an elastic. Divide this bottom section into three and braid or fishtail and secure with an elastic. Next, start on the right side, wrap it around the top of the braid and secure with bobbypins, then do the same with the other side. Gently pull some pieces from the front to frame the face. Finish the look by spraying hairspray into your hand and touching the surface of the hair, which will give you natural static and dryness.
For a polished braided look ideal for the workplace, see Erin Fetherston’s braided bun. To do this look, start with a clean, low ponytail. Take a small strip of hair to wrap around your elastic then pin it down. Next, braid your ponytail (whatever weave you choose), secure it with an elastic, then roll the braid in like a shell and pin to the base of the head.
For holiday party hair ideas, look no further. Spring 2015 runways churned out several festive, accessorized coifs appropriate for music festivals and holiday soirees alike. Our two favorite accessorized looks were historically inspired, and hailed from Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino. At Dolce & Gabbana, rich red roses and ruffled carnations were incorporated into soft chignons to give the models some Spanish flair. If you want to get technical, D&G’s spring runway was inspired by Spain’s rule over Sicily between 1516 and 1713. Guido Palau, head hairstylist, said that the goal of the hair was to make the models “feminine, soft, and pretty.” It’s safe to say that they succeeded. To get the look, Palau and his team created a strict center part, pulled hair back and over the ears, then pinned a rough bun at the base of the head. The simple, soft bun was spritzed with Redken Wind Blown 05 Finishing Spray, then ornamented completely with flowers.
Here’s hoping that this fresh floral look will replace the atypical flower crown, which has become less unique and (ironically) more hipster mainstream. Valentino’s hair look can be interpreted as a reimagining of beach hair. Romantic, marine accessories used to decorate the long, loose tresses were inspired by the 18th century Grand Tour; a traveling “finishing school,” for the young and privileged to absorb the cultural wonders of Italy. To convey this sense of adventure and youth, hairstylists worked off of each model’s natural hair texture. Master the style by first misting sections of damp hair with Redken Fashion Waves 07. Next, scrunch your hair from ends to roots, and set with a blow dryer. Vary texture and increase volume by sporadically wrapping pieces of hair around a curling iron. Then, gather your hair into a half ponytail, spray with Redken Wind Blown 05 for a deconstructed finish, and accessorize with small golden accessories – marine themed or otherwise.